Coco Chanel: the Life of a Fashion Icon

The life of French fashion icon, Coco Chanel, has inspired many works of art. As the designer most celebrated for freeing women from corsets and celebrating a more sporty feminine ideal, it is fitting that her latest incarnation should appear in a celebration of dance.

The Australian premiere of Coco Chanel: the Life of a Fashion Icon takes place nearly 18 months after the world premiere in Hong Kong in 2023. And, amazingly, it is 100 years since Chanel designed her first costumes for the ballet – Le Train Bleu in Paris in 1924. This new ballet is a co-production by Queensland Ballet, Hong Kong Ballet and Atlanta Ballet, choreographed by Annabelle Lopez Ochoa, with artistic collaboration by Nancy Meckler. Keeping pace with Chanel’s image – as fresh today as it was 100 years ago – the dance is modern, moving and magical. The superb collection of dancers from Queensland Ballet populate the fabulous stage design, featuring the winding staircase leading to Coco’s Paris atelier, in costumes that take us through all the facets of Coco’s story – from cabaret singer with her sister, to working as a seamstress, starting her millinery, to establishing her own label and perfume, through to smashing through Dior’s New Look after the Second World War to reinvent herself with her ‘little black dress’. A visual feast for lovers of fashion!

Presenting the complex character that is Chanel, we have not one, but two brilliant dancers. Neneka Yoshida plays Coco at all ages, reinventing herself in every era. As her ‘shadow’ – not so much a conscience but a creative spirit and survival instinct – a somewhat harsher Coco is played by Kaho Kato. Both dancers have such a strong presence and command centre stage in this tale of the fashion icon. Coco seemed unlucky in love, but the men in her life helped her segue to new transformations. The dancing is fluid as Coco romances Étienne Balsan played by D'Arcy Brazier, and moves to her true love, 'Boy' Capel played by leading man, Patricio Revé. After personal tragedy, she is inspired by composer, Igor Stravinsky, played by Joshua Ostermann (The Rite of Spring is brilliantly alluded to in costume and music). Then comes the German occupation of Paris, and Coco tangles with business partner, Pierre Wertheimer played by Luke DiMattina, as well as a Nazi ‘Baron’ played by Vito Bernasconi.

I love the way the choreography gives every dancer a unique signature stamp that allows their stage time to thoroughly shine. It is very satisfying for the audience to be able to applaud after a spectacular piece of dance. And we were very well satisfied. As well as many pas de deux to illustrate Coco’s relationships with the important men in her life, we also have Coco’s dances with her shadow, and an elegant formation of the Chanel logo with the lithe spirits of Georgia Swan and Edison Manuel. The loops of the logo and the fluidity of Coco’s designs are recurring visual motifs in the choreography. These also feature in the design and score. The sensational set and costume designs are by Paris-born, Jérôme Kaplan. His great achievement here is simplicity and elegance. Coco would thoroughly approve! Composer, Peter Salem, already well-known for his film and television scores (such as the jaunty Call the Midwife theme), gives us an original score that is energising and emotional. I was reminded of the first time I heard cinematic scores by Michael Nyman. Inspirational and unique sounds. There are standout signatures with percussive xylophone for the wonderful dancers playing the Chanel No. 5 fragrances, and haunting flute for the devilish Wertheimer and his suitcase full of cash.

The score is performed by Camerata – Queensland’s Chamber Orchestra, conducted by Nigel Gaynor. Lighting design by Jon Busell (after Billy Chan) sets the piece off like a pearl brooch on a Chanel suit. Perfect!

The choreographer was at the Playhouse in person to take a bow with her dancers at the end of the show. It must be wonderful to experience the appreciation of the packed opening night audience – and know that the whole season is completely sold out! Get your name on a wait list – or hope that this wonderful production returns!

Find out more: https://www.queenslandballet.com.au/performances/2024/coco-chanel

Read our interview with designer, Jérôme Kaplan in the current edition of Stage Whispers.

Beth Keehn

Photographer: David Kelly